Full Spectrum, fewer Spectacle at the Paris Couture Shows

PARIS — A several-story-tall golden lion — a modest homage to Chanel founder Coco, a Leo — presided over the luxury giant’s over-the-top fall-winter 2011 haute couture display Tuesday, where models in sequin-covered sheath dresses and cropped jackets showed from inside a giant pearl to trace figure eights between the towering feline’s oversized paws.

Cross-town rival
Givenchy went in the wholly opposite direction, opting against a runway show and offering designer Riccardo Tisci’s Mexican Day of the Dead-inspired collection of featherlight tulle, lace and silk in a museum-like setting.

Givenchy’s decision touched off rampant rumors, with fashion insiders speculating that the choice of a presentation was a cost-cutting measure or intended at protecting potential clients from unwanted publicity. The house insisted it was mostly in order to permit the collection’s meticulously workmanship to shine.

Another pitch-perfect collection — of plain-front pant suits in a neutral palette — charmed the Armani Prive catwalk. The only flaw, in reality, was that there was none and that everything was tasteful and nothing was surprising.

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