Beth Ditto between the Plus-Size Models in Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring Show


Paris Fashion Week is doing much more for the plus-size model movement than New York Fashion Week, where the only distinguished plus-size model casting was Crystal Renn at Z-Spoke.

Jean Paul Gaultier, who has become known for casting Renn in his runway shows and present fall 2010 campaign, cast Beth Ditto to open and close his show Saturday. Renn was one of the few extra plus-size models on the runway.

Gaultier told reporters after the show, what counts is personality; there is not just the one form of typecast beauty. This collection’s pleats can be worn by any size and settle in to different body shapes.

British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, for one, is strenuous of “shock” casting. She told the Guardian, “Instead of a fuss being made about a little cause célèbre exceptions on the catwalk, what I’d actually like in its place is for most models to be a size 10 rather than a size 8.”

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John Galliano Goes Hula-Sailor Chic intended for Dior

John Galliano’s devotion to a theme is only one of the immense things about the man. He got so into the sailing, tropical theme for his spring 2011 Dior show, which walked this morning in Paris, that he took his bow wearing a pirate outfit, his hair in two beach-perfect fishtail braids. Those plaits were only one scrap of the excitement!

The models, some of whom wore leis, worked their small sailor hats by giving salutes at the end of the runway, which was made to appear like a rusty slipway. The girls appeared at the other end from a set that looked like a desert island.

Little flowers germinated toward the floor from the crocheted middle of one, looking almost like Christmas-tree ornaments poised by tentacles. Some skirts resembled grass hula styles, creation the show seem at times just a coconut bra away from a no-food luau.

But the most exciting thing about this collection is that it ties rather to the mermaid theme that’s been teetering on the edge of full fashion-world acceptance for concerning a year. As soon as a celebrity cool goes out in a seashell bra, the ‘maids will in fact be in business.

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Dries Van Noten challenges Spring Trends

Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten is one of the famous “Atwerp Six” who have been defying rules of fashion (such as the need to design eight collections a year) since the 1980s. So it’s little surprise that Mr. Van Noten on Wednesday defied most every trend that we’ve seen for Spring 2011.

Rather than fine cotton poplins, he showed luxe relaxed denim that looked as though it had been dipped in bleach or other dyes to make the color morph across the garment. A compelling highlight was a tailored dark blazer with denim arms. I took it, at first, to be a tailored vest over a denim work shirt. The juxtaposition – tailoring with denim – was a perfect analogy for modern life. Few of us have room in our days for pure formality.

The slightly Asiatic florals on silk were also something we haven’t seen in Milan or New York for spring, offering retailers a new thing to leap on. One carryover from the Yves-Saint-Laurent-70s trend was a black Le Smoking tuxedo jacket. But it was turned as casual as a tailored jacket with denim sleeves by adding patch pockets.

Later in the afternoon, several editors could be heard discussing their earlier forays into Dries Van Noten land at the designer’s two new shops overlooking the Seine from Paris’ left bank. Apparently, the shops haven’t stocked up on enough merchandise.

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