Designer Paul Costelloe kicked off London Fashion Week on Friday by breaking with his old-school traditions, offering a brash, eye-catching show filled with little, flouncy dresses in soft colors.

Abstract checks and some diamond-shaped art deco styles finished the look.

Costelloe was the first to present his vision for the spring and summer 2011 collections as fashionistas descended on Somerset House next to the River Thames for London’s five-day, champagne-fueled extravaganza.

Costelloe typically opens fashion week with a rather sedate show emphasizing cut and quality, but he kicked it up Friday with a display described as “Tinkerbell-turned-party girl.”

The short dresses included metallic weaves and twills that indeed twinkled in the spotlights, a lot of featuring high waists and subtle pleats. A handful of floor-length dresses were topped by silvery metallic-style jackets by a space age look.

Each fashion season, someone desires to know what color is the “new black.” This moment, the new black is no color at all.

Among the scores of designers who revealed their newest collections this week in New York Fashion Week, a striking number intense on looks with scarcely any color.

The dominant tones for next spring and summer, in collections with those of Donna Karan, Alexander Wang and G-Star, were solid white, beige, ivory, khaki, olive, oatmeal and terracotta.

Such hues are an inherent part of the uniforms, or daily wear, in consumers’ wardrobes, said Paco Underhill, author of “What Women Want.” In the fashion business, those daily uniforms give the most revenue, he said.

However neutrals don’t of necessity indicate boring, and they can range from pale rose to cavernous russet, said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Colour Institute which information on the pinnacle colors each season.

Some designers stayed predominantly with neutrals but perked up their collections with splashes of dazzling colors.

Ralph Lauren, who revealed his Western-inspired collection on Thursday, adhered mostly to cream, ivory, parchment and saddle brown tones, brought to life with glittering platinum lame and sparkling beaded fringe.