The historic Hotel de Ville (town hall) in Paris – site, since 1357, of the city’s administration, not to reveal an ensuing revolution or two and thousands of weddings – was the setting for two differing fashion forces.

On the opening day of the Paris pret-a-porter season for autumn/winter 2010/2011, the Belgian designer, Dries Van Noten, wedded military inspiration and 1940s/50s haute couture, in a collection that balanced accurately the right mix of masculine and feminine.

His models strode through the impressive, 19th century, gilded and cherub-infested “Salle des Fetes”, in an amazing combination of army-green cotton, paired with hand-painted, floral silk, which lightly referenced the “New Look” of Christian Dior in 1947. It might sound fantastic, but it was beautiful.

Multi-buckled “fatigue” trousers came with tailored jackets with nipped-in waists and richness over the hips, in grey cashmere; and black wool “cocoon” coats topped elastic-hemmed PT trousers.

Military shirts, in khaki, were worn with profligate, full, skirts just covering the knee, hand-painted in shocking pink and violet over floral prints, with rustling petticoats underneath.

Garbo-esque, hooded raincoats, tightly belted and actually functional, featured a nod to an extravagant military past, with Napoleonic sleeves, covered with silver embroidery.

Leopard-print presented a counterpoint to the military and floral theme, appearing as little scarves and belted waistcoats.